Day 1: We leave Nýidalur in the afternoon once our packs have been sorted out and the communal things distributed. With the packs are on our backs, we head southeast, towards the Köldukvíslarjökull outlet glacier, following a gentle stream leading into the southern part of the Vonarskarð Pass. Today´s hike is short and we make our first camp at the foot of the hills next to a gentle stream.
Distance: 18-22km (11-13.5mi) Walking time: 8-10hrs
Day 2: The Vonarskarð Pass is a sort of basin between the glaciers Tungnafellsjökull and Köldukvíslarjökull. Its geology is conditioned by the two calderas on both sides; geothermal activity is considerable since directly underneath there is supposedly the very centre of Iceland's "Hot Spot". We climb the hills to the Vonarskarð Pass and descend into the beautiful lake of Kvíavatn. Descending further to the source of the Kaldakvísl River crossing one of her streams before continuing to the outlet glacier of Köldukvíslarjökull. We will camp in the morains.
Distance: 12-14km (7.5-9mi) Walking time: 5-6hrs
Day 3: Today we make an early start and head onto the Köldukvíslarjökull glacier. On the other side of the glacier awaits the River Sveðja (the hatch), one of the most complicated obstructions of this journey. Wading such a stream can p problematic but an early start might ensure our safe crossing. Once on the other side of the river we enter into the lavafield of Hágönguhraun and continue south. Depending on the water situation, we will camp in a small crater, a perfect shelter against sudden gales who could descend from the glacier, or else continue to Hraungil.
Distance: 10-15km (6-9.5mi) Walking time: 5-7hrs
Day 4: We have an early morning river crossing as we need to cross the river Sylgja, before heading into Tröllahraun "Lava of Trolls“ a rough recent lava flow where strange images lurk out. We continue south, through the sandblown lava to Tungnaárbotnar with the glacier to our left, before turning in a westerly direction along Jökulgrindur mountain ridge. At Jökulheimar glaciological hut, the only "urbanized" place during the tour we enjoy a night of comfort after a good day, preparing for our crossing of Tungnaá river in the morning.
Distance: 10-15km (6-9.5mi) Walking time: 5-7hrs
Day 5: Crossing the big river Tungnaá demands special techniques and considerable amount of time. When we have crossed all the different riverbeds and have dried our feet, we head between the glacier and Grænifjallgarður mountain range ascending the windblown hills of tuff and sand. All of a sudden one of most spectacular places in Iceland lies ahead of us and we enjoy the breathtaking scenery before heading down to the white-blue lake of Langisjór to the south of which rises the impressive mountain range Fögrufjöll, creating a perfect backdrop for this magical lake. We round the eastern end of Langisjór heading into the hills of Fögrufjöll before camping in a tiny oasis, Grasver.
Distance: 16-18km (10-11.5mi) Walking time: 6-8hrs
Day 6: We hike along the Fögrufjöll ridge in a westerly direction. To our south lie the black sandplains of Skaftá river, the green Fögrufjöll and the amazing lake of Langisjór to the north. Multiple craters and small lakes in between these hills create extraordinary forms, reflecting in water and entertaining the eyes with the colors and contrasts. Passing at the foot of the Sveinstindur peak, we turn to follow the Skaftá River finding a suitable campground in one of the many hidden gullies, offering clear spring water and a shelter from the wind.
Distance: 22-24km (13.5-15mi) Walking time: -7hrs
Day 7: We head out along the Skaftá River, climbing the Uxatindar peaks towering over the river rapids and a canyon, enjoying the views to the Lakagígar crater rows on the other side of the river. The landscape is quite spectacular, tall palagonite cliffs, series of labyrinth gulleys cut into thick tephra layers. These are the outskirts of the big volcanic fissure Eldgjá canyon, which erupted for the last time in 934. Descent along Eldgjá canyon towards the farmer's hut in Lambaskarðshólar where we will catch the bus in the afternoon
Distance: 17-20km (10.5-12.5mi) Walking time: 6-8hrs
